oxygen deficiency and everything good comes from above Miteinonda Hola!
We are back from the (Cevola) pampa. A beautiful and busy week is over here in Peru. But all in a row!
On Thursday the 16th July, we went with one, again completely crowded Collektivo to Yungay. This city was swept up in 1970 by a huge rockfall from Huascaran Norte
. While 22,000 people were killed. Today we see only a huge memorial. From there we went by taxi to Languanuca valley. In the Chevolapampa we set up our base camp. On Friday
Morning, we packed our huge clouds and made our direction Yanapaccha. We made our high camp at about 4500hm ruined in a small hut beside a small lake. We really had more luck than .... because in the night a very strong foehn storm was in the tent in which we would have certainly more than gewattet slept. The breathtaking view of the Chacaraju's let our hearts climbers slip into the pants. On Friday morning, then we launched the attack on the Yanapacha. First it went over hills and scree slopes in a small Glescherkar. From there, under a law imposing glacier Yanapacha.
As we engage the original ascent variant did not know we got into a - for us the most easily erscheindende variant-a snow gully.
The ever steeper and the snow conditions are more demanding channel ended with a crossing over a fairly impressive Eisburch.
was any difference in altitude, with our not so good acclimatization, combined with great willpower. After this trough, the terrain was easier
the view of the snowy ridges below the summit but the more impressive.
The last were hm 100 for HC associated with a significant track work is as much blew powder snow was in the trailer. As is even an original Praedinger quiet .... The last meters on an ice ridge to the summit then rewarded the hard climb. The summit (5450m) is on a knife-sharp line between East and West Yanapacha. We are pretty sure that this variant-wrongly ...- rarely to never was even more committed and therefore they dubbed "Fawolga variant. Unfortunately, we denied the black cat (slang for dark clouds ....) a longer stay and we climbed the summit about the Aufsteigsspur again. Our first acclimatization is unplanned as turned out to be "Schachtlastour "..... Once in the base camp, we rewarded ourselves with a good glass of wine and began to rhyme our base camp blues.
From our basislageralm cebollopampa (3900m) we are at 19.07. losgestartet after climbing yanapaccha wiedermal with complete cloud on foot to about 10:30 in the direction of pisco (5750m).
The pisco is sometimes one of the most boarded mountains of the Cordillera Blanca. it is relatively easy to climb, making it ideal as an acclimatization. accordingly, we are not traveling alone.
from the base camp, it's well over a leaked donkey rising direction peru refugio at 4760m where we will make the first races.
justament stayed at just this time a Peruvian TV team at the hut, the filming a documentary about the ascent of pisco.
we ordered spaghetti pomodori that we had to wait about 1 hour (paid off!)
our moraenencamp is located just below the piscoschachtlen to about 5000m.
between peru refugio (4750m) moraine camp 5000m and we have to cross a moraine that is the dangerous passage of the entire tour (steep, impassable, responsive stones from above ...). At about 16:00 we
reached the longed-for camp reasonably Fix and Foxi.
A sunny windless space makes the stock almost homely pleasant.
After a delightful evening meal lukulischen (ramensuppe and tuna), we have in the usual manner fawolgatour-way directional kees rocks, free of unnecessary (wonderful) and are then hid in the Harper at 19:00.
at 5:00 in the morning of 20.07. we got up (awake since 2:00, because the first summit nervous aspirants at this time started).
are looking for a small desayuno we losgestartet last.
it is a hike as a lei aufn Venetian bissi slower.
the weather was rather cloudy and not as intoxicating schneibelig.
after about 2.5 hours climb we arrived at the summit and then have a meteorological hard to explain this morning promising hole for the other peaks are allowed to enjoy.
was descended smoothly and we are at about 12 o'clock again been in moraenencamp.
sleep after an hour on warm sunny 5000m again we have our dear cloud pack up and marched down basislageralm direction.
at 16:00 we are back in the cebollopampa arrived and were able to look back on a huge summit.
a cerveza and a By the Bottle wine team were few in the effortless pleasurable rewarding!
the next day was under the sign of regeneration and REST!
22nd July: After this wonderful relaxing and important day of rest, we launched our clouds already familiar to the road and drove a good 2km collectivo into Ancoshtal in which was our next Summit goal: the 6354m high Chopicalqui, a truly mighty mountain. The weather was very uncertain and there was many a snowflake from the gray sky. Our march into Moraenencamp wir beautified by us uncomfortable entanglements in the moss and Angela Marsh decorated end. The summit was covered almost all the time, so we had great temperatures for the strenuous way to moraine camp at 4950m, which we reached after 3 1/2h. Zagg - we da da, sun, exposed to the peak free.
We were able to dry in times of peace tent and sleeping bag, the silence was broken only by the constant roar of calving Gletscherbrueche who were around the camp. Water was there, it took only containing a portion of patience to grasp the thin beam. wanted
was originally planned that we will rise the next day, cozy in the high camp and then storms over the next day the summit. But somehow we came to the conclusion that we could try it on a train. So all packed alarm clock to 3 o'clock, looked out - Clear! We were thrilled, because for a long time was not as clear. We took a nice snack in Zellt to us and into the robe, looked out - Siccht NULL! Well, we ended up staying in a tent, because a rise in fog at this big mountain we would not dare us. At 5 clock but the weather was good enough for us fair-weather mountain spirits. It was at 0 degrees, very warm, wind could be felt almost no one, that perfect conditions. Only the front, which closed to gnaw like a wall, something in our Nevenkostuem. After 2 h wir ereeichten already the high camp at 5600m, from which only two rope teams were started. Soon machine We had reached the front, but was feared as harmless.
The climbing team, the entgegenkam us in the snow made us courage and we followed the relentless multitrack Miguel Montanero (aka Michl) about the increasingly steep and narrowing ridge as we approached the summit, the better was the weather, but the air became thinner and stop.
Five steps to break ... uff. The fierce struggle with the inner weakness has finally paid off and after 7 hours, ereeichten 1400m to 70 degrees at 12 we clock the summit.
alone, we spent almost an hour on our first 6000 in the sunshine and almost no wind.
us under a sea of clouds, about us, only the near summit of Huascaran. A dream of a mountain, and we all alone above - Jupiter!
The way back from 6354 to 3900m we were hampered by fog, deep powder snow and non-mobile collectivos. But we did it with good luck to catch another taxi that took us that evening to Huaraz, where we arrived at 21.30 clock.
We had left the keys in the pension, but in which no one was available. Neither telephone nor Sturmlaeuten terror reached the ear of the landlord. HC was therefore decided to make it to the rustic way to climb over the roof into the courtyard. Eternit panels on the roof but were burglar-proof and then the roof wall roof and broke Duch's still the same with the rush Hax ceiling dining room ...
A few rustic hospital moments and three seams later, we drive three Fawolgas again by joint efforts in the Tambo-bar to 3 clock our mischief and ensures that we are still in the city as "locos austriacos known be. We
the next few days our livers are clean air from the height and swing the tired legs in the salsa beat. To our luck just found this weekend a huge party S
